Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Stein 2015

Ripe honeydew, snap pea and cucumber lead on the nose, lifted by a floral note of lilac. The texture is the story here, plush and almost creamy through the mid-palate, yet with enough crunch to keep things honest. At 13.9% alcohol it carries itself with surprising lightness, the finish bright and stony, with a deep savory pull that lingers. Worth noting: fewer than half the grapes from these hail-struck terraced old vines at the Kamptal's eastern edge made it into this bottling, the rest went to Der Ott. The selection shows.