Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Am Berg 2015

Honeydew melon, fennel frond and lily-of-the-valley open on the nose, with a cool, green undercurrent of cucumber and watercress. At just 11.8% alcohol, harvested in mid-September, the wine is light on its feet yet subtly textured, with a firm phenolic spine giving shape to the gentle creaminess underneath. There's a quiet stony depth running through the finish, ore-like and persistent, that elevates this beyond simple refreshment. Ott sources some fruit for this cuvée from organically farmed parcels he oversees but doesn't yet own, though his aim is to consolidate to estate and leased vines only. Thoroughly satisfying Wagram Grüner at a precise, energetic register.