Alzinger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Mühlpoint 2015

Roasted lentil, fresh spinach and lime, the nose maps out exactly what follows on the palate. Rich and expansive, yet there's none of the sweetly ripe primary fruit found in the Federspiel counterpart; this is leaner, more austere in its ambitions. Peat and iodine surface toward the finish, sharpening into a bitter, concentrated point that feels almost bracing. What it lacks in overt generosity it more than compensates for in sheer length, the persistence here is genuinely impressive. Drink now through 2030.