Alzinger Grüner Veltliner Frauenweingarten 2015

Crisp apple, green bean and fresh lime open things up, threaded through with pungent herbs and a snap of citrus zest. For a wine sitting near the top of the Federspiel alcohol range, it carries itself with surprising lightness, refreshing and immediate in a way that belies its weight. The finish is tangy and gripping, leaving behind a trace of iodine and crushed stone that lingers longer than you'd expect. Frauenweingarten sits on gently sloping ground close to the Danube, the kind of site that looks unassuming on paper, yet Alzinger coaxes a depth from it that's genuinely hard to account for. That's the quiet magic here.