Agrapart Minéral Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2015

Taut and knife-edged, this Avize grand cru opens with oyster shell, lime zest and a dusting of white pepper, precise and unrelenting. Fine bubbles carry an almost flinty charge through the mid-palate, where bright citrus pith and crushed chalk lock together with serious tension. The finish is long, briny and uncompromising, more coiled spring than open door. Patience is required; the wine is still buttoned up tight but the architecture here is impeccable. Drink 2025–2030.