Wittmann Westhofener Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2014

White
Rheinhessen, Germany
7.4
WineSaint

Alkaline and austere on the nose, with wet stone, moss, and a sharp lift of almond extract. Maraschino cherry and lime edge in behind, then arrive with real tartness on the palate alongside crab apple and a firm, dense minerality that borders on phenolic severity. High-toned cherry-almond notes carry through to a penetrating finish, giving the wine some lift against its otherwise tight-knit, unyielding structure. Patience is required — this is a wine wound tight around its own intensity. (A parallel tasting of the 2010 revealed a more generous expression: kelp, moss, and wet stone alongside unexpected richness, with saline pull and well-integrated lemon zest energizing rather than sharpening the finish. I'd put the 2010 at 92 points today, two above what it earned on release.)

wet stonemaraschino cherryalmond extractlime and crab apple
Label

Wittmann

One of Rheinhessen's benchmark estates, Wittmann works the limestone and loess slopes around Westhofen to produce dry Rieslings of real precision and age-worthiness, with a strong lineup of Grosse Gewächse from some of the region's most compelling sites.