Laherte Frères Les Grandes Crayères Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2014

Chalk dust, lemon oil, and green pear lead on the nose, tightly wound and purposeful. There's real density here, a Chardonnay with more grip and tension than generosity at this stage. Fine bubbles carry the wine's angular structure through a long, austere finish. Built for the cellar, not the table.