Hugel Riesling Grossi Laüe 2014

Four parcels from the Schoenenbourg Grand Cru's marl mid-slopes, and the 2014's cool, rain-soaked summer shows, this is restrained, almost whisper-quiet. Dried chamomile, beeswax, a thread of white smoke and something faintly mineral lift off the glass with real delicacy. The palate is silky and measured, bone-dry with a cooling freshness that feels almost medicinal in the best sense. Nothing is shouting here. It's still coiling inward, gathering itself, and has every structural reason to reward another decade of patience.