Gaston Chiquet Spécial Club Brut 2014

Rich and tensile, with seven years on lees giving this considerable depth without sacrificing the wine's drive. Chalk dust, citrus peel, dried apricot and a whisper of brioche move through a full, structured palate. Fine bubbles carry the long finish, which ends with a briny, almost oyster-shell edge. Chiquet's best in recent memory, drink now through 2030.