F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Oberhauser 2014

The only F.X. Pichler Smaragd from this vintage bottled in spring, and the site character comes through immediately, apricot, lemon and a pungent green herbal lift that likely owes something to the Neustadt Klon (Clone 90) in the vine mix, a distinction not shared by any other F.X. Pichler Riesling vineyard, all of which are planted with non-clonal, Wachau-specific selections. Firm-framed but expansive on the palate, with a luscious, juice-driven core that builds toward a finish of smoke, ash and gravel. Apricot kernel, zesty citrus and a cooling herbal edge carry through, anchored by a salinity that keeps the glass moving. From a site that looks deceptively modest, flat, gravelly, riverside, but drains superbly and has a long track record of producing complex wine. This may be the finest in that line.