F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Steinertal 2014

Strikingly citric for a Smaragd, leading with kumquat, pineapple and a piquant tropical ripeness that never tips into excess. The density is there, substantial and mouthfilling, yet 12.7% alcohol keeps everything lifted in a way that feels almost paradoxical for the appellation. Lucas Pichler calls it the lightest Smaragd he has ever bottled, and it shows: the wine moves with a freshness that heavier vintages rarely manage. The finish introduces everything Steinertal promises, white pepper, tobacco, limpid stoniness, floral perfume and a thread of green herb. Bottled early August after time in cask through May and June, the rest in tank. Drink now through 2030.