Agrapart Minéral Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2014

Briny and stony on the nose, with iodine, wet slate, and chalk dust giving way to slow-building lemon oil and a faint white floral note. Concentrated through and through, the old vines of Avize and Cramant are written all over this, packing real depth into a tightly wound frame. Fine bubbles carry the wine's tension beautifully, though it remains coiled and a touch austere right now. Give it two years minimum before pulling the cork.