Muga Brut Conde de Haro 2013

Fermented in 1,000-liter wooden vats and aged on lees for 14 months, this is a genuinely serious sparkling wine, and from Rioja, that counts for something. Light yellow-gold, with mineral-edged aromas of ripe citrus, white pear and orchard blossom, ginger spice threading through a quiet, toasty background from extended lees contact. Focused and lively on the palate, Meyer lemon and honeysuckle, clean-cut and carrying no excess weight. The finish is long and spicy, trailing off with bitter pear skin and a lingering floral note. Lean, precise and a touch sappy. A sparkling wine that earns its place at the table.