F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Unendlich 2013

White peach, pineapple and lime arrive first, lifted and juicy, with salt, white pepper and Szechuan peppercorn adding a mouthwatering, invigorating edge. The texture is sleek and polished, refined in a way that feels earned rather than imposed. Iris-like perfume, smoky black tea and crushed stone run through the midpalate with a lucid, ringing precision, the steep, stony origins of the Unendlich site fully legible in the wine's depth and complexity. At just 13% alcohol, it carries itself lightly yet loses nothing in concentration, finishing with extraordinary persistence. Drink now through 2035, though this has the architecture to go further.