F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd M 2013

A blend of Loibenberg (50%), Kellerberg, Liebenberg, and a small portion of Kollmitz, this M saw the longest pre-fermentation skin contact of any Pichler in 2013, then spent time in a new large oval before moving to tank ahead of bottling. The nose is opulent, ripe peach, melon, and pineapple layered with almond extract and peach kernel, all underscored by a pronounced smokiness that reads as black tea, ash, and Szechuan peppercorn. On the palate, it's full-bodied and creamy, more sculpted than juicy, the vibrant, Riesling-like freshness typical of so many 2013 Grüner Veltliners simply isn't the point here. This wine is statuesque, even static in the best sense: M stands for monumental, and it earns the name. The finish is long and glowing, circling back to peach kernel and white pepper with quiet persistence.