F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg 2013

Persian melon and white peach lead the nose, cut through by a pleasantly bitter peach kernel edge and a dusting of nutmeg, the same almond-tinged high note that runs through several Pichler bottlings this vintage. On the palate, the wine is rich and expansive but never heavy, kept alive by a juicy lift and the Loibenberg's signature white pepper and crushed stone drive on the finish. A textbook Smaragd from this address, lush where it needs to be, incisive where it counts.