F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Liebenberg 2013

The Liebenberg site runs hot, and the 2013 shows it, concentrated and high-toned, with a nose that veers into plum eau-de-vie and Mirabelle, rich with ester and stone fruit intensity. There's something almost confited about it, yet the Wachau acidity holds firm underneath, preventing the wine from tipping into excess. Full-bodied and layered, with a long, spiced finish that speaks clearly to site character. Drink now through 2028.