F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Kellerberg 2013

Kellerberg announces itself immediately, white pepper and a faint smokiness lead, with Szechuan spice and the stony, sun-warmed character this site does better than almost anywhere. Beneath that, ripe white peach and Mirabelle plum give the nose a pit-fruit richness without softening the underlying tension. Full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, yet the acidity keeps everything in line, driving through to a long, mineral-edged finish. A serious Smaragd that needs time to fully open. Drink 2018–2030.