Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Stein 2013

From granite terraces in Engabrunn at the Kamptal's eastern edge, this is about as mineral as Grüner Veltliner gets. Lemon peel, blond tobacco, mint, quarry dust and wild flowers lift off the glass with real precision. On the palate, tart apple, grapefruit and rhubarb take center stage, but it's the crushed-stone underpinning and a briny, crustacean-like salinity that set it apart, laced through with a billowing floral perfume that adds unexpected grace. Firm structure, polished texture, and a finish that stretches on generously. It's almost a shame to be opening bottles now. Almost.