Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Der Ott 2013

Drawn mainly from younger vines across Ott's three premier sites, Der Ott 2013 opens with a cider-tinged apple character, spiced and tangy, alongside a musky peony note and a breath of sea air. On the mouth, roasted parsnip weaves through the apple fruit in a genuinely intriguing sweet-and-savoury interplay that feels deliberate rather than accidental. At 12.8% alcohol it carries real weight without sacrificing lift, and the finish sustains that interplay with satisfying length. It doesn't quite match the nuance of the Fass 4 from the same vintage, but it's a fine, buoyant expression of Wagram Grüner in its own right.