Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Am Berg 2013

Harvested in mid-September under Ott's second vintage at the helm, with his contract vineyards now largely farmed biodynamically. At just 11.8% alcohol this is featherlight, yet there's no shortage of ripeness, white peach, winter squash and cucumber sit alongside fresh lime, green herbs and a scattering of floral notes. What's striking is how the wine carries all of that juicy brightness on a texture that's almost satiny, edging toward creamy. Unpretentious and alive, it does exactly what good Wagram Grüner should.