Agrapart Minéral Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2013

Candied lemon rind, toasted hazelnut and a stony, chalky edge announce the Avize and Cramant origins immediately. There's real tension here, a rich, almost creamy core pulled tight by piercing acidity and a long, flinty finish that lingers well past the last sip. Powerful yet precise, this is a wine that hasn't found its ceiling yet. Give it time.