R. H. Coutier Cuvée Millésime Grand Cru Extra Brut 2012

Stony, bracing, and tightly wound, not what you'd expect from the generous 2012 harvest. White pepper and citrus zest lead, with crushed limestone and a flash of fresh mint keeping things cool and focused. The Pinot Noir backbone is all tension and restraint, showing none of the vintage's usual opulence. Disgorged January 2021 at a lean 2g/L, this is a purist's Ambonnay, angular now, but built to unfurl.