Hugel Riesling Grossi Laüe 2012

From Schonenbourg Grand Cru, and showing no signs of its decade in bottle, the nose is all Mirabelle plum and sun-warmed stone, with dried hay drifting in on the air. The palate is juicier still, lemon pith pulling against that ripe fruit, a thread of smoke adding depth. Smooth and resonant. The 7.5g/L residual sugar is almost imperceptible, the finish reads dry, long, and salivating. Jean-Frédéric calls it the slowest-aging wine in the cellar, and the evidence is right there in the glass.