Egly-Ouriet Millésime Grand Cru Brut 2012

Lemon curd, white peach and dried chamomile open things up, with a flinty, chalky thread weaving through the whole glass. Chardonnay's grip is felt immediately, sharp, precise acidity and a stony backbone that keeps the wine lean and purposeful. Fine bubbles carry real energy, adding lift to a texture that feels almost electric. Given the difficulties of 2012, the freshness here is striking, all tension and cut, with none of the heaviness the vintage could have imposed. Drink now through 2030.