Elio Grasso Dolcetto d'Alba dei Grassi 2011

Dolcetto rarely achieves this kind of refinement, but the 2011 Dei Grassi pulls it off with ease. Soft dark fruit, dried violet and a trace of tar and game smoke, it's light on its feet yet impressively layered. The finish is long and polished, with a Burgundian finesse that feels almost out of place for the variety. Not a wine of weight or power, but one of exceptional grace.