Vilmart Cuvée Grand Cellier d'Or 2009

Honeyed brioche and poached pear lead, with a thread of lemon curd and toasted almond running underneath. Fine, persistent bubbles carry the 2009 vintage's natural generosity without tipping into heaviness, there's a bracing cut of grapefruit zest on the finish that keeps everything lively and clean. Vilmart's winemaking discipline shows here; the richness never gets the upper hand. Drink now through 2028.