Pierre Gimonnet Millésime de Collection Extra Brut 2009

Amber-tinged gold with a fine, persistent bead. Dried apricot, honeyed brioche and baked apple give way to toasted almond and a whisper of candied citrus peel, the hallmarks of a mature Côte des Blancs with time on its side. Cramant brings the tension and focus here, while Chouilly fills in the mid-palate with a generous, almost creamy weight. The finish is long and stony, with everything knitted together seamlessly. Drinking beautifully now, though it will hold comfortably through 2027.