Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay 2009

White peach, pineapple and citrus pith on the nose, with iodine-tinged minerality, musky ginger and a leesy depth that recalls the Côte de Beaune, Meursault and Chassagne in the same breath. On the palate it's brisk and tightly-knit, with vivid acidity and a stony undercurrent that keeps the fruit honest. Nutmeg and stone fruit carry through to a finish that's long, subtle and firmly gripped. Understated in the best sense, everything a Burgundy lover wants, just located firmly in Hemel-en-Aarde.