Gaston Chiquet d'Aÿ Blanc de Blancs 2008

Dried citrus blossom, white peach and powdered chalk open with real purity. Aÿ Chardonnay can lean toward weight and generosity, but this 2008 holds its ground with taut acidity and stony tension keeping richness in check. Focused and long, with that floral lift the vintage delivers so reliably.