Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay Walker Bay 2007

Deep gold with a bronze cast. Tropical fruit, honeycomb and toasty oak lead the nose, with an odd strawberry note that calls to mind Champagne with a touch of Pinot Noir, an identity crisis for a Chardonnay. On the palate it's rich yet dry, with a stony mineral core undermined by acidity that feels out of place rather than refreshing. For a producer of Hamilton Russell's standing in Walker Bay, this is a letdown, overworked and slightly disjointed. A second bottle confirmed the concern, showing even less fruit and more phenolic grip, with a crab apple edge. Hard to see where this goes.