Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François 2007

Flint, woodsmoke, and cold stone lead the way before orchard fruit, lemon pith, and a whisper of brioche emerge from underneath. Sourced from premier and grand cru plots across Ambonnay, Verzenay, Le Mesnil, and Cramant, the raw material is serious, you can feel the vineyard weight even through the wine's restrained, almost tightly wound composure. Persistent bead with a long, chalky finish that underscores how much is still held in reserve. This needs another five to eight years before it gives up what it's really holding.