Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée Brut 2006

Rich and layered, with seven years on lees lending a deep, toasty complexity that few Champagnes at this level can match. Baked apple, warm brioche, dried citrus rind and a thread of woodsmoke weave through the glass with quiet authority. Fine, persistent bubbles carry a creamy mid-palate weight that never tips into heaviness. There's a chalky grip on the finish that keeps everything honest and long. Drink now through 2030 or beyond, this has plenty of road left.