Agrapart Minéral Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2006

Roasted hazelnuts, dried pear, woodsmoke and a deep vein of crushed stone pour out of this serious Blanc de Blancs from two of the Côte des Blancs' finest plots, Les Champboutons in Avize and Les Bionnes in Cramant. The density here is striking, yet bracing acidity keeps everything taut and focused rather than heavy. Fine bubbles carry the weight gracefully through a long, stony finish. Give it several more years in the cellar; it's barely scratching the surface.