R. López de Heredia Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia 2005

López de Heredia deep in tertiary territory, and completely at ease there. The 2005 Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia, 80% Tempranillo rounded out with Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo, pours into a world of dried mushroom, sandalwood, chestnut and faded dark fruit. Concentrated but unhurried, with firm tannins that have settled into the wine without losing their grip, and a chalky spine that holds the whole thing together. Oak presence is subtle, adding texture rather than flavor. For a wine twenty years from harvest, it's alive in a way that feels almost unlikely, this is López de Heredia doing what no one else does quite so well.