La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Rioja Reserva 2005

Dark ruby in the glass, with a nose that opens on cherry conserve, vanilla pod, mocha and dried florals, pipe tobacco curling in behind. Broad and welcoming on entry, it draws tighter through the mid-palate where sweet cherry and spice cake are kept lively by juicy, mouthwatering acidity. Three years in used American oak, 80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, has done its work quietly: the finish is long and spiced, trailing woodsmoke and fine-grained tannins that lend structure without any grip or austerity. Slightly more animated than the excellent 2004, and very much its equal. Outstanding value in old-school Rioja.