La Rioja Alta Marques de Haro Seleccion Especial Rioja 2005

A genuine curveball from La Rioja Alta, 85% Tempranillo blended with 15% Graciano, aged in French and American oak, and a clear step away from the house's classical style. Deep, near-opaque ruby, with a generous nose of dark cherry conserve, black raspberry, incense, vanilla and dried flowers. Rich and full-bodied, with broad fruit that coats the palate in cherry and sweet spice, underpinned by firm, grippy tannins that give the wine its backbone. The finish is long, plush and slightly sappy. There's enough structural depth here to age, though the appeal is more immediate than contemplative. Long-time followers of the house may find this unrecognizable, and that's entirely the point.