Gaston Chiquet d'Ay Blanc de Blancs 2005

White peach, warm honey and a stony undercurrent set the tone immediately. Ripe orchard fruit fills the mid-palate with real concentration, while flinty minerality keeps everything focused and taut. Given air, a wisp of smoke drifts in and lifts the whole thing, carrying through to a long, sappy finish that lingers with genuine persistence.