Georges Laval Cumières 1er Cru Brut Nature 2004

Deep gold with real presence. Baked apricot, dried mango and warm brioche open with an undercurrent of stony, chalky depth, while preserved lemon keeps the richness honest. Fine bubbles carry the wine with quiet authority, this has the density and drive of a great vintage Cumières, with smoke and spice threading through a long, unhurried finish. Drink now through 2030.