Bodegas Riojanas Puerta Vieja Crianza Rioja 2003

Old-world Rioja from the start, medium ruby in the glass, with redcurrant, dried cherry, mocha, and cedar on the nose, a trace of anise lending a gentle lift. Soft and giving on the tongue, with pliant tannins and baking spice framing red fruit that tilts just slightly sweet. There's a warmth and generosity here that echoes traditional Bordeaux, though with a rounder, more approachable texture. An honest, well-made Crianza that punches well above its price.