La Rioja Alta Vina Alberdi Especial Reserva 2001

Medium ruby fading to a pale rim. Dried cherry, toasted hazelnut, Indian spice and dried flowers, old-school Rioja perfume, cool and intriguing. Tart red berry and bitter cherry are wound tight on the palate, held in place by a firm mineral spine that lends the wine an austere, almost severe character. The finish has real grip and lift, trailing off with candied floral notes and cherry skin. Those hunting richness and plush fruit will find it lean; the appeal here is in the restraint, and there's latent sweetness that cellaring should coax into the open.