Bollinger La Grande Année 1999

Deep amber-gold after seven years on lees. Dried apricot, honeycomb and warm pastry spice lead the nose, with candied stone fruit and toasted brioche adding richness without tipping into excess. Concentrated and layered on the palate, with a flinty backbone pulling everything into line. Persistent bead with an easy, unhurried finish. A wine of genuine substance from one of Champagne's great vintages, and it has plenty of road left to run. Drink now through 2030.