Bollinger R.D. 1996

Aged butter, dried orange peel and roasted hazelnut lead, with white pepper and damp stone adding lift and tension underneath. Tiny, relentless bubbles drive a concentrated, tightly wound palate, preserved lemon, smoked almond and a long, flinty finish that stretches on and on. Nearly three decades in and the wine hasn't loosened its grip; there's real architecture here, coiled energy that suggests more to come. A landmark R.D. from Bollinger, still very much in its stride.