La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva 1993

Smoke, dried earth, caramel and a faint meaty undercurrent, the nose of a wine that has moved well past its fruit-forward youth. What red fruit remains is ghostly at best. Soft and gently sweet on the tongue, with a touch of tomato leaf lending a rustic, slightly savory note. Grip and length are both modest. This is Ardanza in quiet decline, unhurried and not without charm, but depth is no longer the point. Drink soon.