La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva 1990

Dark plum, leather, and cured meat open with that characteristic old Rioja wildness, earthy, a little brooding, with dried fruit lurking underneath. Full-bodied and generously built, showing redcurrant and blackberry woven through smoke and animal notes that feel entirely at home in a wine this age. Tannins at the back are firm and unvarnished, lending an honest, rustic grip that defines the vintage rather than detracting from it. Drink now, this won't gain further polish, but what's here is genuine.