Marco de Bartoli Vecchi Samperi Perpetuo NV

Roasted nuts, dried orange peel, beeswax and a drift of clove spice — this is unabashedly oxidative and proud of it. The saline, savory character dominates, with tart stone fruit arriving mid-palate to cut through the richness. Long and mouth-watering on the finish, with a staining quality that lingers. Built through a Solera system and bottled in 2022, it's the natural stand-in for a fine dry Sherry — perhaps even more compelling in its rustic honesty.