Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl 2023

A reductive edge on the nose, crushed stone, damp earth, something almost smoky, gives way to a palate of startling tension and linearity. Bone dry and razor-cut, this barely resembles Pinot Gris in any conventional sense. The limestone of Clos Windsbuhl drives everything: pure, electric, stripped of excess. Exceptional.