Emmerich Knoll Gelber Traminer Loibner Smaragd 2023

Paler in the glass than you'd expect from Traminer, with a nose that pulls you in immediately, Damask rose, elderflower, and a touch of mandarin, heady and persuasive without tipping into excess. Bone-dry on the palate, where lemon freshness cuts through the floral weight and keeps things honest. The texture is smooth and clean, with no bitterness to speak of, just a juicy, even flow that carries the aromatic character through to a long, blossomy finish. For a variety prone to heaviness and low acid, Knoll has drawn something genuinely poised out of these valley sites, with small parcels from Kellerberg and Loibenberg lending quiet depth. An impressive piece of winemaking.