Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Fass 4 2023

Ott's benchmark estate Grüner, sourced entirely from the Hengstberg and fermented mostly in large barrels with a portion of stainless steel. White pepper and lichen open things up alongside a lift of orange peel — earthy and fresh in equal measure. Pale Mirabelle and a touch of citrus flesh add gentle roundness to the mid-palate without weighing it down. The texture is soft but present, drawing out a lip-smacking finish with that characteristic peppery, woodsy savour running all the way through. Bone-dry and poised — Wagram Grüner doing exactly what it should.