Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Brenner 2023

From loess soils with high active lime content, Ott's Brenner comes off vines over 50 years old on a fully south-facing site just below the Spiegel, fermented in a 1,200-liter barrel. The nose is quiet and unhurried — a soft creaminess that doesn't rush to announce itself. On the palate, though, it opens up with surprising fluency: smooth and weightless, driven by a saline, yeasty current that keeps things cool and alive. Green pear skin, crushed fern and a peppery richness surface gradually, with the depth of old vines felt throughout rather than stated outright. Bone-dry, with a finish that trails off in salt and subtle savory warmth.